Travelling light: How to pack a saddle bag

Virtually everything in the cycling world has become lighter over the last 10 years, even the essentials and spares that you carry on every ride, like a puncture repair kit or a multi-tool. That’s great for those who want to travel as light as possible, but to maximise these weight gains, you need to master the art of packing a saddle bag.

With the right packing technique, you can save weight and space, but what exactly should you carry in a saddle bag and what’s the most efficient way of packing a bag? Here are some top tips.

• Read more: Five essential tools and spares for cyclists

Choosing a saddle bag: minimal is better

The most important element is the saddle bag and it’s best to try to keep things as light and as minimal as possible; there’s no point in using a larger bag than necessary.

Even the smallest saddle bags will have enough space to store most, if not all, of the essentials, especially for everyday riding when you probably won’t be tackling massive distances. You may want something larger for longer rides, where the chances of a mechanical are a little higher, in which case a few more spares may be required.

© GCN

A saddle bag doesn't need to be large

Making life easier, and more compact, many bags have other handy features like a built-in multi-tool which will save more space. And don’t forget that you can also spread things out, like in your jersey pockets, so that your saddle bag doesn’t have to bear the full burden.

Once you’ve chosen your saddle bag, it’s time to think about what you need to carry.

Swap butyl for TPU inner tubes

Inner tubes are essential for all cyclists, even for those with a tubeless set-up, unless you’re willing to risk not having a back-up plan in the case of an unsealable puncture.

Butyl tubes are the most popular choice, but they come with a significant weight and space penalty. One butyl inner tube takes up the same space as two TPU inner tubes and they weigh significantly more too, so TPU tubes are the best way to save space and weight.

Aim to carry two TPU tubes, or only one if you’re at an event and want to save some precious grams. You can also get away with a single spare tube if you’re running tubeless.

• Read more: Butyl vs latex vs TPU: what are the best inner tubes for cycling?

Take advantage of tubeless plugs

There have been many changes in the world of cycling over the last 10 years and the move to tubeless set-ups has been one of the biggest. Not everyone is on board just yet – we won’t stoke a tubeless versus tubed debate – but they’ve become hugely popular in both amateur and professional cycling alike.

The obvious benefit to a tubeless set-up is the added puncture resistance, which in turns means fewer inner tubes to carry. There is also another line of defence against punctures in the form of tubeless plugs. These can be inserted into punctures to seal them and they’re essential for any cyclist running a tubeless set-up.

If you carry a tubeless plug, you’ll only need one spare inner tube, saving you weight and space.

• Read more: How to fix a puncture on a tubeless tyre

Tyre levers: less is more

Tyre levers are usually sold in sets of three but you don’t need to carry all of them out on a ride. One will often suffice, saving you space and more precious grams.

You may want to up this to two if you have tyres with particularly stubborn beads, especially if you ride a lot in winter when removing a tyre with cold hands can be painful work.

Don’t waste money on a dedicated tyre boot

© GCN

An old tyre can but cut up to make a tyre boot

For particularly bad punctures which have left a gaping hole in your tyre, you’ll need a tyre boot. These can be placed on the inside of the tyre to cover the puncture, ensuring the inner tube doesn’t bulge out.

While there are dedicated tyre boots, you can also create your own using an old piece of tyre - it’ll save a little extra money. The little sliver of tyre can be tucked neatly into the side of a saddle bag where it’ll take up virtually no space.

Avoid a rusty multi-tool

Saddle bags are in the firing line for all of the dirt and grime that kicks up from the rear tyre. It doesn’t only cake the bag in dirt, but can also seep through into the bag and onto your spares. That’s not too much of a problem for most of the things packed in there, but it can quickly lead to a rusty multi-tool.

To prevent this, put the tool inside a plastic bag or latex glove. It’ll have the added bonus of protecting your spare tubes from any sharp edges on the tool.

Pick a multi-tool carefully, making sure it has everything needed for your bike. For example, some bikes have torx bolts but many multi-tools don’t have adapters to fit these. There are some things you can survive without too, like a chain tool. These can get you out of a pickle if a chain snaps but, realistically, when does that ever happen? Most of us aren’t putting out enough watts and if a chain is well maintained, you shouldn’t run into any problems.

• Read more: How to replace a bike chain

Save money and use a mini pump

© GCN

Mini pumps are essential

Thanks to CO2 cartridges, re-inflating a tyre has never been easier. One quick burst and you’re good to go.

Cartridges are only single use, though, and the cost will soon rack up if you’re using them on a regular basis. That’s why we’d save CO2 for specific occasions, like those times when a puncture and rain strike at exactly the same time. They’re also useful for events when speed is of the essence. But for any other time, speed isn’t that important, so save some money by sticking to a mini pump.

Some mini pumps are so compact that they can be stored in a saddle bag, although others will need to be secured to the outside of the bag or placed in a jersey pocket. We’d still also carry a CO2 cartridge even if you don’t plan to use one, just in case. As they’re small, you won’t need to sacrifice much space to accommodate them.