Cycling’s ultimate climbs: Col du Tourmalet

Over the years many mountain passes have gained a cult following but few are more iconic or more frequently used than the Col du Tourmalet.

The Col du Tourmalet is situated in the French Pyrenees, in the department of the Hautes-Pyrenees, not far from the Spanish and Andorran borders. It has become an icon of the Tour de France, with the climb holding the title for the most-used alpine ascent in the history of the race. So far the Tourmalet has been used some 80 times since its first inclusion in 1910.

Therefore, it's not surprising that this epic climb is on a lot of cyclists' bucket lists. Want to tackle the Tourmalet? Here's what you need to know about this famous French ascent, and how to go about riding it, with some advice from GCN's Manon Lloyd.

Watch: The Tour de France Femmes' hardest stage: we recon the Tourmalet

Tourmalet stat attack

The Col du Tourmalet is a savage mountain both in terms of its overall length but also the altitude that it summits at, sitting over 2,000 metres above sea level.

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There are two ways to the summit of the col du Tourmalet with Manon's preference being the east side

There are two routes to the summit of the climb: firstly, the ascent from the western side, starting in Luz-Saint-Sauveur, which gains 1,404m across 19km averaging 7.4% with a maximum gradient of 12%.

The ascent from the eastern side, starting in Sainte-Marie-de-Campan, is the longer of the two routes, gaining 1,267m along the 21.6km climb with an average gradient of 5.8% and a maximum of 11%. The summit for both routes is situated at 2,115m above sea level.

Ascending from the east side

Although both epic in stature, the eastern side of the climb is Manon's preferred side. Heading out from Sainte-Marie-de-Campan, the climb takes its time to build with the first kilometres averaging around 4%, giving you time to find your rhythm before the intensity builds further into the climb. Although it can be tempting to push on and keep the average speed high, it is worth holding back and remembering you have a long way to go.

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The opening kilometres of the climb are fairly easy going so pacing is going to be important to not get overexcited

Around 7km in, you will find yourself meeting some beautiful waterfalls that are definitely worthy of a quick rest stop to soak in their beauty. Once you are past this point you’ll see ahead of you that the gradient kicks up with a few hairpin bends setting the scene for what's to come.

• Read more: How to conquer long climbs

Within four kilometres from the summit, you will arrive at the small mountain town and ski station of La Mongie, sitting 1,800m above sea level. Depending on the time of year that you attempt the giant of the Pyrenees, you might find that a lot of the café might not be open.

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At 1,800m above sea level and with only four kilometres remaining the town of La Mongie is a great spot for a coffee

As you leave La Mongie you will have a few chance glimpses of the summit, with it feeling almost within touching distance at this point. This stretch from La Mongie to the summit is Manon’s favourite of the whole climb. Although the last 500 metres of the climb are tough with some of the more testing gradients of the whole climb, lifting your head up to absorb some of the views will ease the pain in your legs and lungs.

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The final push to the summit features some of the most testing gradients of the whole climb

At the summit, you will be greeted with some of the most stunning views the Pyrenees have to offer. You will also find a monument to the first rider to crest the climb all the way back in 1910, Octave Lapize. It might come as a welcome addition to find out that there is a café and restaurant sitting atop the mighty col, and if ever there was a time you deserved a coffee and slice of cake, it's now.

When should I go?

As with the Alpine climbs, the winter will be pretty hard going with the potential for snow and ice to close the climbs of the Pyrenees. Without a doubt, the best time of year to head to the Pyrenees and take on the Tourmalet would be in summer, between June and early September. This will give you the best chance to enjoy good weather.

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Summer months are going to offer the best conditions and views to really enjoy the climb in all its beauty

The descent off the top of the Tourmalet whichever way you go is a beautiful ribbon of buttery smooth tarmac cascading down the face of the mountain. After all of the effort to get to the top, you want to be able to enjoy around 20km of pedal-free riding without concern. In the rain, you will need to take more care but in the summer months, and on a good day, you are in for one hell of a ride.

Do I need to take anything special?

The Tourmalet is a high mountain that is susceptible to mountain weather, which means conditions can change rapidly, and although you may set off in perfect summer conditions by the time you are getting towards the top you could be facing a whole different climate.

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Even in the height of summer, a climb like this is at the mercy of mountain weather so always head out prepared.

When Manon took on the climb in June, the conditions went from sunny to foggy, cold and wet. Although it is a little more to carry, taking a pair of lights and at the very least a windproof layer will help to keep you comfortable on your way up and back down.

Fastest times on the climb

With both the Tour de France and Tour de France Femmes avec Zwift featuring the climb in recent years, the gauntlet has been thrown down to see who can summit the mighty mountain fastest.

On the men's front, the Strava KOM currently sits in the trophy cabinet of Sepp Kuss set during this 2023 Tour de France. He covered the eastern side in 46 minutes and 15 seconds, averaging 22km/h for the effort.

• Read more: 808 Strava KOMs: A record-breaking season for Sepp Kuss

For the women's QOM, the current holder of the accolade does not come from this year's Tour de France Femmes avec Zwift. Instead, it is held by Illi Gardner who rode the climb in June this year in a time of 55 minutes and 34 seconds. We were lucky enough to make a video with Illy on her QOM assault on the mountain that put her time out of reach of the Women’s WorldTour riders later in the summer.

Back down to earth, if you are wondering what the average time for the eastern ascent of the Col du Tourmalet is, you might be pleased to know that it sits at a more manageable one hour and 48 minutes.

Is the Col du Tourmalet on your bucket list of climbs, or have you already done it? Let us know how you found it and which side you rode in the comments below.