How to custom paint a bike

If your frame is aluminium or steel, and it’s not corroded, you can get it stripped down to raw metal at a local sandblaster. It'll remove all the paint from your bike frame and stop all that paint dust from covering everything within a square mile of your garage or workshop.

Before you get it blasted, spend some time getting rid of any stickers, especially thick ones. If you leave them in place, they’ll absorb the energy of the fine sand particles, and you’ll end up with ridges and bumps in the surface of the frame.

Before you start spraying your primer, get the head tube, seat tube and bottom bracket masked. Paint on these areas won’t do you any favours.

For a smooth, even layer, the main thing is to keep a "wet edge" by keeping the can moving, pushing the paint along at the edges before they dry out and create lap marks. Paint off the end of each part of the frame to avoid thick spots of paint as you change direction.

For a really good finish, sand the primer down with some 600 grit sandpaper to get rid of any imperfections. Focus on getting a nice smooth surface and getting rid of any little bumps from the dry primer. Then, wash it down. First with some clean water, then with a pre-paint wipe.

It’s time to paint! The individual steps here will depend on what colours you’re using, but the technique is the same as it is for the primer. Keep the paint can moving, don’t let the paint run, but apply enough paint in each area to avoid a dimpled effect. Most paints require two coats of paint for a good coverage.

Finally, apply the clear coat. Most lacquers are bad for your lungs, so apply it outside and wear a mask. As with the paint, be careful to apply just the right amount to give good coverage without letting the lacquer run. Most lacquers require two or three coats, so follow the manufacturer's instructions to make sure you get the best results.