How to buy a road bike for under £1,000/$1300/€1200

Shiny superbikes worth as much as a small car; components comfortably into the thousands; endless upgrades and customisations: you could be forgiven for thinking that buying a road bike is a fast track to bankruptcy.

While there’s no denying that road cycling can be an expensive pastime, you don’t have to remortgage your house to be able to afford a high-quality road bike. In fact, it’s possible to buy a reliable steed for less than £1,000/$1300/€1200.

But how much bang do you get for your buck in a sub-£1,000/$1300/€1200 bike? Here’s everything you need to know.

Components

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The quality of a bike is as much about the components as it is the frame material

Framesets

Carbon is the byword for performance in modern cycling, with virtually every component now available in a lightweight, carbon form. So, you can be forgiven for thinking that you must have a carbon frame. In reality, at the price point we’re talking about today, the majority of bikes will have alloy framesets paired with carbon forks.

And that’s not a bad thing! Alloy frames are robust, durable and can perform really well - let’s not forget that the pros rode alloy frames for decades. They’re usually a little heavier than their carbon counterparts, but that shouldn’t make too much difference to the average rider, even if we all like to pretend we’re racing the Tour de France every now and then.

It is possible to find fully carbon frames at this price point, although it usually comes at the cost of lower-quality components. Lower quality often means heavier too, so any weight-saving advantage from picking a carbon frame will ultimately be cancelled out.

Let’s not overlook steel as an option either. Those with a penchant for history will be experiencing a nostalgia overload right now, reminiscing about the steel steeds from the good old days of cycling. While most cyclists have long since waved goodbye to steel, it’s still a viable alternative, offering brilliant durability. Steel is much easier to repair compared to carbon too, which is a useful characteristic to have if you crash - though hopefully that won’t happen.

Groupset

The frame material you opt for will have a direct impact on the other components on the bike. An all-carbon frame may be slightly lighter, but at this price tag it’ll usually come with lower-quality components than an alloy frame. The manufacturers have to even out the overall cost of the bike somewhere, right?

You can expect an alloy frame to be paired with a high-quality groupset such as Shimano 105, SRAM Rival or Campagnolo Athena which are more than capable and can often be found on carbon bikes costing over £2,000/$2600/€2400. A carbon frame will likely have a less high-end - although still more than capable - option, such as Shimano Tiagra or equivalent.

For reference, check out the full list of groupsets available across the main brands below. It’s unlikely that you’ll find anything above Shimano 105, SRAM Rival or Campagnolo Athena on a bike at this price point.

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Brakes

Road bikes have one of two braking systems: rim brakes or disc brakes. Modern trends have swung in the favour of disc brakes and you’ll struggle to find a professional team that doesn’t exclusively use them. Why? Without opening a can of worms - cycling forums are awash with disc versus rim debates - they provide more controlled stopping power through better modulation.

High-end bikes use hydraulic disc brake systems, but you can expect a bike below £1,000/$1300/€1200 to come with the mechanical alternative. These use a cable system similar to that used on rim brakes, instead of the more powerful and reliable hydraulic system.

Alternatively, rim brakes provide a more cost-effective and cheaper option than mechanical disc brakes. Sure your cycling pals may tell you that you need disc brakes, but rim brakes are tried-and-tested over decades. That’s why there are still lots of cyclists out there who have stuck by their trusty rim-brake bikes, unwilling to budge as the cycling world around them shifts to disc.

Wheels and tyres

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Modern tyres and rims are wider than they were a decade ago

Scour the web for the best road bike upgrades and virtually everything will point towards new wheels. Even higher-end bikes often come with heavy, stock wheels, which is why they’re the first component most cyclists upgrade. It’ll come as no surprise that bikes below £1,000/$1300/€1200 will also come with similar stock wheels.

But does it really matter? Unless you’re looking for marginal gains, the wheels won’t make much difference. In fact, we tested regular wheels against expensive wheels and found the difference was very small indeed. And if you decide that the extra speed matters, you can always look to upgrade the wheels further down the line.

Next up, tyres. Back in the day, it was a matter of the skinnier, the better. 23mm was favoured for many years. Go back further and they were even narrower. Most bikes now arrive with 25mm or 28mm tyres which offer the perfect balance of comfort and rolling resistance, although don’t be surprised if some bikes have even wider tyres. You should also check what the tyre clearance of a bike is, as you may want to upgrade to wider tyres for additional comfort or different terrains in the future.

The standard tyres on new bikes generally don’t provide the best performance, which usually becomes more noticeable - and sometimes sketchy - when riding in the rain. Take this into account as you may want to upgrade them to something better, and therefore budget for that too. Check out our comprehensive guide to everything you need to know about tyres [LINK] to get your head around what’s out there.

New or second-hand?

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If buying secondhand, look for clues that the bike isn't stolen

Want those pennies to go a little further? Why not consider a second-hand bike? It’s the easiest way to get a bike with components that otherwise wouldn’t be available in this price range. We've written a guide for buying second hand to make sure you get a deal, not a dud.

A word of caution, though: it's safer to buy a second-hand bike from a reputable bike shop. They will have fully serviced it and thoroughly checked it for any damage. Buying online is much more risky and if a deal appears to be too good to be true, it usually is.

Even when buying a second-hand bike from a reputable shop, be sure to still check the components. It could have a higher-level spec than a new bike but if the components are worn out, you’ll only end up needing to replace them soon anyway.

Of course, if you want total peace of mind that a bike is in top nick, it’s best to play it safe and get a brand new one.

With some effort, it can be done

Bikes under £1,000/$1300/€1200 can pack a lot of quality into an impressive package. Of course, you won’t find a pro-level superbike, but it’s easy to find a steed capable of tearing up your local roads, even if your budget is strict. With a little research, and being mindful of these top-tips, you’re certain to be able to find a solid new ride.