Guide to completing Mark Beaumont's alternative North Coast 500

The North Coast 500: Scotland’s answer to Route 66. This iconic coastal tour of the northern tip of Scotland is one of the most popular driving, cycling and campervanning routes in the UK. Every year, thousands of people make their way to the start point at Inverness to take on the 516 mile route, on two wheels or four.

Ultra-endurance legend and Scotsman Mark Beaumont knows the North Coast 500 route inside and out. As well as riding the roads again and again through his years of riding and training, he has twice set the record on the North Coast 500 route: in 2015, he was invited to set the inaugural record, then in 2022, he reclaimed the record, cutting down his old time by over nine hours. So when he says he’s got a few improvements to the famous Scottish route, you can trust that he knows what he’s talking about.

Beaumont's cycling-specific version of the route avoids some of the busier and less interesting parts of the route, instead choosing narrower roads that the vans and motorhomes can’t fit along. If you’ve not seen Si Richardson’s and Beaumont's adventure on this route, have a look at the video. They managed to tackle the entire route in just three days, averaging 268km and climbing 2,677m a day!

If you’re looking to take on the route yourself – perhaps at a slightly more enjoyable pace – read on. We’ve broken down Mark’s NC500 route, so you know what to expect, what to pack, and what to look out for.

Beaumont's route

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Beaumont's NC500 route

Beaumont's NC500 route is bang on 500 miles in length, starting and finishing at Inverness Castle, and taking in the northern tip of Scotland. The route is intended to be ridden clockwise – that way, you’ll ride the more famous side of the Bealach na Bà climb, otherwise known as the Applecross Pass. And, perhaps more importantly, you’ll get the hillier west coast section of the route out of the way first. The second half is no walk in the park, but at least you’ll have tackled the toughest climbs already.

The route is based on the classic North Coast 500, the iconic driving route that thousands of people set out on each year in campervans and motorhomes. But Mark’s route deviates from the original driving route in a few places.

1. On the west coast, shortly after Ullapool, it peels off the main road to hug the coast more closely than the original. A small, twisting road leads up, along the coast, and into the village of Lochinver directly from the south, before rejoining the original route.
2. The most noticeable deviation begins on the northern edge of the route. Rather than following the coast around to John o’ Groats, Beaumont's route bears right about half way across the top of the route, heading inland. Cutting off the north east corner might deplete the bragging rights of this ride, but the roads heading south are breathtakingly beautiful, and free of motorhomes and vans that can clog up the classic route.
3. To avoid the busy A9, Beaumont's route heads inland once again on the east coast, plotting a course around the Dornoch Firth estuary. Instead of heading through the lowlands and over the bridge, the route utilises quiet B roads that give fantastic views of the coast.
4. Finally, to bring it up to the full 500, Beaumont's route takes in the Black Isle just north of Inverness. But this isn’t just about ticking off miles: the coastal road towards Cromarty is beautiful, sitting right by the water. And as you head along the south side of the peninsula, Inverness will be in sight across the water. At this late stage in the ride, it’s guaranteed to be a thrill to see the finish line looming on the horizon.

Have a look at the full route in detail on Komoot

Route Highlights

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Dusk on the northern tip of Scotland

1. The Applecross Inn

This unassuming pub is remote, but hugely popular. Often, you’ll find a real buzz within – probably because everyone is chuffed to have made it over Bealach na Bà to get there.

2. Applecross to Shieldaig

A section of the route that doesn’t get much air time, but a favourite for Beaumont:

“Everyone talks about the Applecross Pass [Bealach na Bà], and therefore underestimates the rest of the peninsula and loop back to the main road at Shieldaig,” he says.

“This is a stunning ride, but challenging, with some good climbs, albeit coastal and much shorter than the Bealach na Bà. Having ridden this many times, I now enjoy this segment as much as the big climb, with stunning coastal views.

3. Rhegreanoch to Inverkirkaig

This is a tiny road that Beaumont has added to the route, and is only really accessible by bike.

This stretch is avoided in the official North Coast 500 route as the roads are too small to accommodate caravans and motorhomes, but is absolutely stunning for cycling, so make the most of these tiny C roads. This is an absolute highlight of the west coast that you'll miss if you stay on the drivers’ route

4. Sandwood Bay Beach

This beach is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the UK, but it’s also one of the least accessible – it can only be accessed by following a 6km gravel track from Blairmore. The few travellers who go to the effort to visit love the wild feeling of this beach, which is usually deserted

5. First glimpse of the sea after the inland section

Beaumont's inland route that cuts out the busy north eastern corner of the original itinerary is stunning – it takes in tiny roads through remote stretches of moorland, and takes on two substantial climbs.

But as beautiful as this inland stretch is, after over 60km of riding inland, there is something magical about that first glimpse of the sea as you summit the final climb of the road, and begin the descent down towards the coast.

Climbs to look out for

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The climbs are long and plentiful on the NC500

This route takes in 8,032m of climbing. A substantial elevation gain, for any cyclist. But crucially, these climbs are not neatly portioned off into a few big climbs with easy miles between them. Oh no. This route is like riding over a shark's teeth. Constant ramps will slow your progress and kill your momentum. Not a route for the faint of heart, but rewarding for those who dare.

When prepping your bike and equipment, the hills are worth bearing in mind. Steep gradients combined with heavily laden bikes are going to keep you in your easiest gears. Consider fitting a larger cassette, a smaller chainset, or packing lighter.

Among the countless unnamed ramps, there are a few longer climbs that stand out.

1. Bealach na Bà, or Applecross Pass

Widely regarded as the toughest climb in the UK, this 9.1km climb gains 626m, averaging 7% and maxing out at 20%. The switchback road rises up between dramatic mountain peaks, giving fantastic views. For many cyclists, this is a bucket list climb, and for anyone, it’s a challenge to get to the top.

View the climb on Strava

2. An Teallach

This 13km climb follows a beautiful river valley up from the coast. Despite rising an impressive 332m, the good surface and steady gradient makes this a fun, confidence-inspiring climb. Beautiful craggy views are sure to distract you from any gripes from your legs.

View the climb on Strava

3. Hope Climb

A short, sharp climb on the north coast that gets progressively shallower as you climb. Initially, this one kicks up to around 20% as the road snakes away from the sea, but it gradually eases off as you approach the top. The climb leads to beautiful, barren moorland, then tips down and back towards the coast on the other side of the headland.

View the climb on Strava

4. Forsinard Rise

This long drag on Mark’s inland stretch has you riding uphill for 20km, though only on a gentle gradient to start with. The road becomes progressively steeper, which can be a real test for morale. At least, on this quiet stretch of the route, you won’t have any cars or vans to worry about as you wind up towards Forsinard, gaining over 200m as you go.

View the climb on Strava

5. Final rise before descending to the coast

This climb, found on the tiny road linking Kildonan and Crakaig, is on one of the roughest roads on the route. This single track, pothole-ridden road will slow you down, but it’s a stunning road and worth every bump and jolt for the views and the quiet. Over about 4km the road rises 286m, putting this among the steeper climbs on the route.

View the climb on Strava.

6. Up from Dornich Firth on Struie Road

The last climb of over 200m on the route takes you away from the coast and high up onto the B road that overlooks the classic North Coast 500 route. Some ramps of over 20% will test the legs at this late stage in the ride, but around half way this climb settles into a more steady gradient. This 3.5km climb rises 215m, and averages 5.2%.

View the climb on Strava.

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Beaumont's NC500 route follows smaller roads

Road surface and tyre choice

This route heads deep into the wild corners of Scotland, but remarkably, it is also fully tarmacked. The quality of the tarmac varies massively, from fast rolling A roads, to loosely-paved, narrow lanes – in some sections, grass grows between two paved strips.

When it comes to bike choice, this is worth bearing in mind. There’s no need for chunky gravel tyres on this route, but equally, a really narrow tyre won’t be particularly comfortable. A wide, slick road tyre will give the best of both worlds, minimising rolling resistance, while absorbing road buzz and bumps.

Preparing for the weather

If you’re planning this route, you need to prepare for all weather conditions, even in August. The weather can often be, as the Scots say, ‘fresh’. Or as anyone else would say, ‘miserable’.

Check the forecast before you go, but generally speaking, you’ll need warm layers and waterproofs, especially if you're camping.

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Proof that it doesn't always rain in Scotland

Beware the midges

Much like the Royal family, midges like to spend their summer in the Scottish highlands. They’re the UK’s answer to mosquitoes, and they can be a real pain. If you are planning to take on the NC500 between May and September, you need to prepare accordingly. Repellent is a must, as is a net – especially if you’re camping. Locals swear by Skin So Soft, a moisturising lotion from Avon that the midges hate, but a proper repellent containing DEET (also known as N, N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide or diethyltoluamide) is probably your best bet. 

The food situation

It’s easy to assume that the northern tip of Scotland would be a culinary desert. Thankfully, this route is well furnished with cafes and restaurants that have sprung up to cater for tourists tackling the iconic NC500 route.

The one section where you will need to be more self-sufficient is Mark’s alternative inland stretch between Melvich on the north coast and Lothbeg on the east coast. This 60km stretch is more isolated, so don’t plan to stop here unless you are cooking your own meals.

One thing to bear in mind is that ride snacks like energy gels and cereal bars (a staple of any bikepacker’s diet) are harder to come by. Outside of Inverness and Ullapool, there are no supermarkets, just village shops. So be prepared, and make sure you’re stocking up when you get the chance.

The options for accommodation

Since the North Coast 500 is so popular with campervanners and cyclists, there are loads of places to stay, from B&Bs and fancy hotels, to eco pods and campsites.

In Scotland, it’s legal to wild camp, so with a tent or bivvy bag, the whole world is your camping ground! As us bikepackers like to say, home is where you erect it. But wherever you pitch your tent, stick to these rules:

• Camp in small numbers
• Stay in one place for a maximum of three nights only
• Do not camp in enclosed fields of livestock or crops
• Camp away from buildings, roads and historic structures
• Take your litter with you
• Use a stove rather than a fire where possible
• Check advice on fire risk conditions
• Keep fires small, controlled and supervised
• Bury human waste and urinate 30 metres away from open water
• Remove all traces of your tent pitch – including any camp fire debris

How long does it take?

Beaumont and Richardson got around the route in three days. But then, Beaumont got around the world in 79 days, so he isn’t a particularly helpful reference for us mere mortals. Ultimately, it’s a personal decision, and it depends how far you want to ride each day. But with so many hills, and with heavily laden bikes, a week is probably a good starting point for a relatively fit cyclist.

Hopefully, you now have all the information you need about Beaumont's route, how to tackle it and how to get the most enjoyment out of it - though maybe not a new record. Ready to pack up your midge repellent and set off?